Last updated: May 5, 2022
LA CIUDAD DE MEXICO (CDMX)
(Clearly) this city is huge, which makes visiting every hot spot a logistical challenge. Plan your day by neighborhood, because like New York, each is distinct in character, culture and architecture. If you have time, I’d recommend getting to know each target area instead of rushing from landmark to landmark. Then again, that’s my strategy in any city... (You'll see the neighborhood name noted at the bottom right of my recommendations.)
Best for a manageable first day post-travel: Centro Histórico
Favorite to walk around: Coyoacán
Favorite for food: Roma Norte
FOOD
When it comes to menu browsing in CDMX, generally I Googled words I didn't recognize. (My Spanish minor hasn't held up as well as I'd have liked, but I wanted the practice!) The other option is to ask for an English menu, which a few restaurants may have on hand, especially the more upscale spots used to catering to foreign visitors. Stating the obvious here: don't let a little thing like a language barrier get in the way of a good meal... Ask for their must-try dishes.
P.S. I learned the hard way in hanger: Lunch in most places starts at 1pm.
Reserve weeks ahead:
Pujol
Lunch or dinner, there is nothing like this approach to "Mexican" cuisine. And in the meantime, catch Enrique Olvera on Netflix's Chef's Table Season 2. Polanco • $$$$
Máximo Bistrot
The entirely locally-sourced menu changes daily to showcase the creativity of Chef Eduardo Lalo García (who worked at Le Bernardin) and wife Gabriela. As with every 5-star restaurant, the tasting menu seems to be the play here... Roma Norte • $$$
Contramar
A Mexican coworker calls this lovely seafood spot her favorite eatery in the entire city, and was upset I couldn't make it there. (My travel buddy refuses to eat seafood.) It's on the top of my list for next time! Roma Norte • $$$
Iconic Treats:
El Moro Churrería
Since 1935, this churrería has served up fried delights and hot chocolate to boot. Now with multiple locations throughout CDMX, it's hard to miss thanks to their slick blue and white branding, which Instagram just loves. Multiple locations • $
Pandería Rosetta
Bakeries in CDMX are something truly special. There is no wrong choice here, and it's a great go-to for an early morning coffee and carb loading. Multiple locations • $
Easier to find a seat:
Lalo!
Also an Eduardo Lalo García brainchild, cafe-style Lalo is best for breakfast or lunch. You'll sit at one long table with fellow eaters, and the menu is full of light fare like pizzas and ceviches. Roma Norte • $$
Lardo México
Easily one of the best meals we had in CDMX, the food is light and fresh and feels like something new. We indulged in salads, which can be hit or miss in other spots. A few mishaps interpreting the menu, but you know what? It was really damn delicious anyway. La Condesa • $$$
El Califa
For tacos. All of the tacos. Hipódromo • $
Los Danzantes
A perfect spot to recover from the crowds down the street at Frida Kahlo's house, the tacos are delightful, as is the seared tuna for a light lunch. There's usually a wait, but the place is large and the line moves fast. Great for kids, too. Coyoacán • $$$
El Mayor
Touristy? Yes. But sometimes you gotta just do it for the tableside aerial view of the Aztec Templo Mayor. Luckily the food is just as good—I had killer enmoladas (enchiladas topped with mole.) Enter the elevator via the ground floor bookstore to head up to a rooftop café and restaurant. Centro Histórico • $$
HISTORIC SIGHTS
Second only to the food scene, my fascination with all things historical continues to drive most of my travel decisions. Mexico City has plenty to offer in this department. In case you didn't know... (nerd alert) it was once an Aztec mainstay built in the middle of a lake called Tenochtitlan. Yes, built in a lake—on top of wood stakes and filled with dirt not unlike Venice, Italy. When it was conquered by the Spanish in 1521, the Aztec buildings were pillaged, stripped to foundations and buried to serve as a foundation for their colonial capital.
You can imagine the cultural layer cake we’re dealing with here: an entire Spanish colonial city on top of temples, homes, and caches of artifacts. There’s a round temple in the middle of a subway station. There’s a cathedral next to the excavated remains of the Templo Mayor. And there’s everything (architecturally, culturally, culinarily) that came after it, including renowned artists and architects like Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Luis Barragán, whose work is influenced by this magnificent ancient heritage. It’s Rome in our hemisphere.
In the City:
Until 1978, when a utility company discovered a monolith carving while laying cables, this one city block was simply known as the "Island of Dogs," since it sat higher than the rest of the city and strays would hole up there to escape flooding streets during storms. After the government gave permission for demolition of the buildings, they uncovered 6 phases of Aztec temple construction and caches of artifacts, now fully explorable by the likes of you and me. There's a wonderful museum attached to the precinct (included in admission.) Centro Histórico • 70 pesos ($3.50) admission
If you're on my level of history nerd, also stop by this archeological site for more Aztec temple ruins and a colonial Spanish church (c. 1610). Tlatelolco • free to the public
The Instagram-favorite "House of the Blue Tiles" is on a main drag in downtown that isn't all that interesting aside from this iconic iconic 18th-century home (now a soda fountain!) It's just stunning, and don't miss the interior. Centro Histórico • free to the public
A Must-See Day Trip:
I insist that you make time to see this UNESCO world heritage site. The Aztecs found it abandoned thousands of years after its construction and gave its name (meaning "City of the Gods") since they assumed only deities could build such a place. It's incredible. Though a guide is not required, we booked one from Amigo Tours, who picked us up at our hotel and drove us to the site and back. He turned out to be an archeologist, and he asked us if we wanted the tourist version or the “real talk.” Obviously we picked the latter... Basically: the signs posted around the site are filled with nonsense, but they’re fun to read. (The Avenue of the Dead is not actually a road at all and no tombs have been found there. It’s a drainage ditch. The big pyramids are not dedicated to the Moon or Sun, but gods of water and earth. The columned hall is an inaccurate reconstruction. The room with butterfly frescoes is entirely imagined from a 4” piece of original painted plaster. Ya know, like most reconstructions take it with a grain of salt.) It was really fun to hear from someone who has been part of the excavations on the site, and I cannot recommend a visit enough. I climbed two pyramids and napped harder than I've ever napped in my life that afternoon. (There's also a hot air balloon tour, by the way.) San Martin • 70 pesos ($3.50) admission
A fun excursion:
The only place you can get close to the original middle-of-a-lake Aztec version of Mexico City is this neighborhood, where residents still live and farm chinampas—man-made plots of land on water. You can see them by strolling up to one of any number of docks and hopping on a colorful boat. The Mexican equivalent of a gondolier will push you through the water for a few hours. You can buy snacks from floating cookeries, pay a floating mariachi band to serenade your boat, or just watch everyone else do these things while enjoying the view. I loved it! We took the subway and light rail down, but an Uber is probably easier to deal with. Xochimilco • Negotiable prices. Average: 450 pesos ($22.50) per hour per boat.
MUSEUMS
Oh, you thought this was over. Nope, there's more. Can't forget about the museums, of which there are hundreds. No pressure to narrow it down whatsoever...
National Museums:
Museo Nacional de Antropología
In a funny twist, we ended up in line at the airport with the director of this museum, who was returning from a conference at the Met! The exhibitions feature ancient recreations and artifacts, giving you a good idea of just how prolific the Maya and Aztec were. But perhaps more interesting is the building itself, which I remember from my art history textbooks. Hidalgo • 70 pesos ($3.50) admission
Free admissions, European art and a stunning curved building. Adjacent to the Soumaya Museum is the Fundación Jumex for double-dipping (this time: art of the modern variety.) Hidalgo • free admission
House Museums:
Ask about fees to take photos. It's usually double the modest ticket price.
The shared home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Make online reservations for an early time slot. You’ll still wait in line, but be much better off. Coyoacán • 200 pesos ($10) admission
Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
In the middle of an upscale 1940s neighborhood, you'll find the architectural standout studios of Diego, Frida and architect/artist Juan O’Gorman (you’ll see his murals all over the city.) Reservations not needed. San Angel • 30 pesos ($1.75) admission
We stopped by this hacienda (estate) after boating in Xochimilco. It's a private home turned museum dedicated to the owner’s favorite artist: Diego Rivera. It houses one of the largest collections of his work. The property is stunning, and a nice way to break up the city experience. La Noria • 100 pesos ($5) admission
LUIS Barragán Houses
Unfortunately, no Barragán structure made it into my itinerary since I didn't make reservations before we left the states. Don't make my mistake... You can book architectural tours to hit all birds with one stone, or try your hand at visiting each individually, though keep in mind both the Cuadra and Casa Gilardi are private homes.
Built in 1966-68, the house and horse stables were designed for a community of riders and funded by a Swedish businessman. You may recognize the pink walls and pools from fashion editorials. Mayorazgos de los Gigantes
Make a reservation to see the city dwelling and studio of the famed architect. It occupies two adjacent plots and looks rather unassuming from the exterior (a Mexico City trend for grand houses.) Tacubaya • 400 pesos ($20) admission
A private home accessible through one of the architectural tours, or by contacting the owners directly. Alice makes it look worthwhile! San Miguel • call +52 55 5271 3575 to visit
Hotels
I didn't give this much thought since I'm usually a realist when it comes to adventure—if you're there to see a city, you don't end up spending much time at the hotel... We stayed at the Hampton Inn, which is in a former monastery in a great location in Centro Histórico. The rates were too good to pass up, and aesthetically it was a step up from your usual airport hotel with tiled walls, a beautiful façade and a rooftop terrace (with bell tower) to boot. My friend Kelley stayed down the street at Downtown Hotel when she was there, and she loved it (Azul Histórico is also there, which I found underwhelming food-wise, though it's beautiful.)
After stalking Instagram a bit, some other suggestions: Alex and her husband stayed at Casa Nuevo Leon, and Ana stayed at Hotel Condesa DF. And of course, there's always AirBNB for that independent feeling. I think next time, I'd like to stay in Condesa, which is quieter than "midtown" Centro Histórico.
Cons to consider
CDMX sits in a dip in the middle of a ring of volcanoes so there are a couple of potential issues that come with that...
Variable air quality. On windless and rainless days, air gets trapped and it’s incredibly muggy and the air pollution is extreme. If you have serious asthma issues, this is something to consider before visiting.
Altitude. At 7,320 feet above sea level, it’s possible (although not very common) to feel ill. It all depends on your susceptibility. I felt nothing until we went to Teotihuacan, where it took me longer than usual to catch my breath while climbing the pyramids. That’s about it. For those affected, it takes 2-3 days to get acclimated, and the general advice here is to proceed slowly and drink lots of water. Many guides recommend spending the first day in Centro Histórico, where landmarks and restaurants are close together and easily walkable.
Earthquakes. Let’s be honest, San Francisco, LA, Seattle, Hawaii, etc. face the same relative risk. But as you know there were bad earthquakes last year, and the damage is still visible throughout the city, especially in Coyoacán and Roma Norte. Just watch your step. And for the truly paranoid, there’s an app you can download to stay updated. Otherwise, live your life.
And finally, entitled American tourist comment here: very few signs in museums and landmarks are available in both Spanish and English. They’re working on it, but bring your translation apps or (and you should do this anyway) brush up on your español before going nuts.
On questions of safety
The number one question I get about this city is: “do you feel safe?” Yes, absolutely. (Do I regularly wander the streets at 1am? No. But I wouldn’t do that in New York either.) We used Ubers to get around (which are super, SUPER cheap, by the way.) But we also rode the subway and light rail to the end of the line in Xochimilco and had zero issues. Frankly, the New York subway is more hostile and certainly far less clean. There are buskers and people trying to sell you things, but the rides were peaceful (albeit crowded.)
Takeaways
Throughout my 5 days there, I found everyone I encountered to be exceptionally kind and accommodating—patient with my broken Spanish and beyond hospitable. Everyone just seemed happy...all the time. I never saw anyone crying or yelling on the street at their family members or friends, which is a bizarre change of pace from New York City.
I came away from my trip feeling both happily tired (and very full), but also rather frustrated… The ancient civilizations of Mexico rival the Persians, Greeks, Chinese and Romans in technological development, architectural sophistication, and scientific contributions, and yet this wonderful country and its people have become the continuous butt of jokes of our country (and the President.) Stating the obvious here: they deserve so much better, and they certainly deserve our respect for their beautiful country and its impactful history.
Long, long story short: I really I cannot recommend introducing yourself to this city more. Will it put you outside your comfort zone? Maybe. But your Mexican hosts will do everything possible to bring ease and kindness to your journey there. If you do please tag me so I can live vicariously!